Vietnam, June 2024

Last month, I took off on an epic 15-day summer vacation to Vietnam with my girlfriend, Shreya. We spent our days exploring the country's crazy-beautiful landscapes, from the bustling streets of Hanoi to the stunning Halong Bay, the picturesque Ninh Binh, the rugged roads of the Ha Giang Loop, and the super charming town of Hoi An.

Visa

We used Atlys to apply for our Vietnam eVisa, and they promised to deliver it within 5 business days - which they did. The whole process was super smooth and hassle-free.

Flights

We scored some awesome deals on Skyscanner - we managed to snag round-trip tickets from Delhi to Hanoi and back for just INR 16,000 per person. We booked through Trip.com and flew with VietJet. Since we also had check-in baggage, we shelled out an extra INR 1800 per person for the round trip.

Currency and eSim

I hit a snag with my BookMyForex multicurrency forex card on this trip - it didn't support Vietnamese Dong. So, I ended up getting some USD cash from them instead and used that to exchange for local currency throughout the trip. On the eSim front, I bought one online before I left, which cost around $14 for 15 days with a pretty sweet 5GB of daily data.

Hanoi (3 Nights)

Our midnight flight ended up being delayed by six hours, so we didn't take off until 6am. After a relatively short five-hour flight, we finally landed in Hanoi. Luckily, I had already arranged for a cab to the hotel through Booking.com, and with some wallet credits, it was basically free. Once we arrived at the hotel, we checked in and I exchanged some cash from a nearby shop to get us started. I'd recommend avoiding currency exchange at the airport if you can, the rates are usually pretty terrible.

We were starving, so we decided to grab some amazing Pho at Hong Hoai's Restaurant, which was literally just around the corner from our hotel. And let me tell you, it was hands down the best Pho we had during our entire trip. We also gave their Spring Rolls a try, and they were very delicious. If you're in the area, I'd totally recommend checking this place out - it's definitely one of the top spots to eat in Hanoi Old Quarters. With our bellies full, we headed back to the hotel to catch some rest.

We took a stroll around Hoan Kiem lake in the evening, and it was a lovely 500m walk. The lake is home to the beautiful Ngoc Son Temple, so we grabbed the tickets and checked it out. The temple itself was amazing, and the bright red bridge leading up to it was a real showstopper. We spent some time wandering around the lake, snacking on fresh fruits and ice creams. On our way back to the hotel, we made a quick stop at Aha BaMi to try their Banh Mi, and it totally hit the spot - it's now my go-to Vietnamese dish.

The next morning, we kicked off the day with a delicious breakfast. Then, we headed out to the Temple of Literature, a beautiful temple dedicated to Confucius. After spending some quality time there, we made our way back to the Old Quarters to check out some of the area's trendy coffee spots. First up was Bancong, a stunning cafe that's super famous for its wide variety of coffees. We ordered a Salt Coffee for Shreya and an Egg Coffee for me, but it turned out we both preferred each other's drinks - I loved the salt coffee, and Shreya was a big fan of the egg coffee. After hanging out at Bancong for a bit, we headed to the MET Vietnamese Restaurant, which had an impressive 4.9-star rating and over 10,000 reviews. We ordered a Pho and a Duck Delicacy, and the food was really tasty. With our bellies full, we headed back to the hotel to catch our breath and rest up for a bit.

In the evening, we strolled over to the famous train street, which was buzzing with people, but the atmosphere was electric thanks to all the lights. With an hour to kill before the train came by, we grabbed a table at a cafe right next to the tracks and ordered some drinks. As we sat there, the train passed by, and it was wild - I mean, it was literally just a few feet away while we were sipping our drinks. If you ever get the chance to check it out, I'd say do it in the evening when all the lights are on - it makes a huge difference.

Next, we made our way to the famous Beer Street, which is supposedly home to the cheapest beer in the world. The street was lined with bars and pubs, but to our surprise, most of them were pretty empty. We decided not to stick around and just kept exploring. After a while, our stomachs started growling, so we stopped by a nearby shop and grabbed some amazing Banh Mi. Feeling pretty beat from all the walking, we headed back to the hotel and called it a night.

The next day, we headed to the famous incense village, which was supposed to be a photographer's paradise with its vibrant incense sticks. The incense village was roughly an hour's drive from Hanoi, so we decided to grab a cab through the Grab app, but it was a bit of a letdown. The sun was blazing, making it hard to bear, but we still managed to snap some great pics. What we didn't expect was the hefty fee they charged for taking photos - about INR 500 per person. And to make matters worse, the spots were pretty tiny. Honestly, it wasn't really worth the cost.

We were starving by the time we got back, so we headed to Pizza4P near the lake for a seriously good lunch. I'd made a reservation a couple of days earlier, which was a good call because it's a popular spot. We grabbed our table and ordered a pizza with two different toppings, plus my go-to Spaghetti Bolognese. The food was honestly incredible - probably the best pizza we've had in a long time.

We spent the evening taking a stroll around the lake area, which was absolutely stunning with all the lights and live music filling the streets. We grabbed some more of that delicious Banh Mi and tried some other tasty street food. It was a special night too - our last one in Hanoi and also the eve of Shreya's birthday.

Halong Bay (1 Night)

It was Shreya's birthday and what better way to celebrate than on a luxurious cruise in stunning Halong Bay. I'd booked the Genesis Regal Cruise months in advance, along with our transfer from the hotel. After checking out, we hopped on the minivan and headed to the pier - a two-hour ride that flew by. From there, a small ferry took us to the cruise, where we were warmly welcomed by the friendly staff. They showed us to the dining area for lunch, which was a real treat. The chef had crafted a menu just for us, based on our eating preferences we'd shared when booking. The five-course lunch was amazing, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. Next, we got the keys to our room, which I'd asked them to decorate for Shreya's special day. After a quick rest, we set off on a cave tour. When we got back, we took some time to unwind and soak up the breathtaking views of the limestone cliffs rising out of the ocean.

As the evening rolled in, the cruise hosted a swimming party, so we jumped in and had a blast. I tried to stay afloat with Shreya's help, while she took the plunge and jumped off the ship's back roof into the ocean - what a thrill! After a refreshing dip in the water, we decided to dry off and join the rooftop cocktail party on the cruise. We got dressed and headed up to the roof for some drinks and a great view. Before we knew it, it was time for dinner. We made our way to the dining hall and took our seats at our designated table. The dinner was a personalized 7-course meal that was tailored just for us. But the highlight of the evening came when the lights went out and the staff burst into our table, dancing and carrying props and a birthday cake to wish Shreya a happy birthday. Seeing her beaming with joy was the best part of my night. My only regret is that I didn't capture the moment on camera - I was too caught up in the excitement to film it in time.

After dinner, we were quite tired, so we decided to call it a night. The next morning, we kicked off the day with a healthy breakfast that was, to be honest, a bit on the bland side. Next up, we hit the waters of Halong Bay for some kayaking, surrounded by absolutely stunning views. It was truly breathtaking. We spent over an hour paddling through the limestone formations. After working up an appetite, we headed back to the cruise, freshened up, and enjoyed a delicious 5-course early lunch. With our bellies full, we checked out and headed back to the pier. I had already arranged for our ride to Ninh Binh through the cruise office, so we were all set to go.

Ninh Binh (2 Nights)

We spent around 3-4 hours cruising in the minivan before finally arriving in Ninh Binh, where we were conveniently dropped off right at our stay. I've gotta say, I'm really impressed with how organized things are in Vietnam and Thailand - the public transport system is top-notch. Not only do they offer pickup and drop-off services straight to your hotel, but the vehicles themselves are pretty swanky, with some even featuring massagers. And the best part? The prices are super reasonable.

Our Ninh Binh stay was a real treat - we booked a gorgeous villa through Booking.com that was part of a hotel. The villa itself was super stylish, and the surroundings were just as beautiful, with rice fields stretching out as far as the eye could see. We decided to take it easy for a bit and just chill out in the villa. The hotel had a nice perk - free bicycles for guests to use - so we grabbed a couple and rode them to the nearest convenience store to pick up some snacks. Ninh Binh is a pretty small town, and the food options were mostly limited to pork and beef dishes. Chicken was surprisingly hard to come by, but we managed to find a few places that served it.

The next day, we picked up a scooter and headed to Trang An, a stunning UNESCO world heritage site that's often called the 'Halong Bay on land'. The scenery was just incredible. One of the best ways to explore Trang An is by taking a boat tour, and there are three different routes to choose from. After doing some research, we decided to go with Route 3, mainly because it features the longest cave in Trang An, which stretches for a whole kilometer. We grabbed our tickets, hopped on the boat, and were blown away by the ride. As we made our way through the kilometer-long cave, the minerals and clever lighting created this amazing display of colorful minerals all around us. We stopped at a super famous spot and snapped some photos, and the whole trip took around 2-3 hours. We absolutely loved it.

In the evening, we headed to Hang Mua, just a short 2km trip from our hotel. When we arrived, we were blown away by the massive lotus garden that greeted us. We spent a bit of time strolling through the garden, snapping some photos, and then began our climb up to Hang Mua to check out the famous lying dragon statue. The view from the top was absolutely breathtaking. We chilled there for a while, just taking it all in and enjoying the stunning scenery from the top.

The next day was our checkout day, so we decided to take it easy and spend the day lounging by the pool, getting some work done on the side. Since I hadn't taken time off for the entire trip, it was a bit of a workcation. Later that evening, we had a bus to catch to Ha Giang from Ninh Binh, so we grabbed a taxi to the bus station. The bus was a VIP Sleeper, and it was seriously impressive - probably one of the best sleeper buses I've ever been on. Vietnam really knows how to do sleeper buses right.

Ha Giang Loop (3 Nights)

We rolled into Ha Giang around 2:30am, and the bus conveniently dropped us right in front of the Jasmine Hostel, where we'd booked our Ha Giang Loop adventure. I'd made the reservation online two months prior, and it was a good thing I did - Jasmine Hostel is the go-to spot for organizing Ha Giang Loop tours. After checking in, we crashed in the dorm for a few hours before getting up and getting ready for the day. From there, we headed to the main Jasmine Hostel, which was pretty impressive, and where our tour would kick off. We fueled up with a delicious breakfast, and then I picked out our ride - a semi-automatic scooter. Automatic scooters aren't the best choice for Ha Giang Loop, since it's super hilly, but the semi-automatic worked like a charm. I'd booked a 4D3N self-riding trip, but if you're not comfortable on a bike, you can always opt for an EasyRider - basically, a driver who'll take you on the ride of your life while you sit back and relax like royalty. Our self-riding 4D3N trip costed us around INR 17,500 per person, but it was worth it - the cost covered luxury bus transfers to and from Ninh Binh and to Hanoi, bike rentals, group tour, fuel, stay, and all our meals (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) for the entire four days.

We had a massive group of over 200 people for the tour that day, so we were split into 10-11 smaller groups. I was part of group 7, and most of us were solo riders, except for a few who were with Easy Riders. After a quick briefing, we kicked off our tour with Shreya as my passenger princess on the bike. The first part of the ride was pretty chill. But things started getting interesting when we hit some slopes. A few hours in, we stopped for lunch at Quan Ba, then continued on to Bac Sum Pass, where the roads got narrow and twisty. Next up was a cave tour at Lung Khuy Cave. After that, we rode for a few more hours, taking breaks to soak in the views and snacks. By evening, we rolled into Yen Minh, where we'd be spending the night. Day one was a wrap, and we'd covered around 100kms.

As we checked into the hostel, the rain started pouring down - no surprise, given it was the middle of the rainy season in Northern Vietnam. We were shown to our dorm, which we'd be sharing with some fellow travelers. Come 7pm, it was time to chow down, so we all gathered in the dining area and kicked off dinner with a few rounds of "happy water" - a type of corn-based wine that's a local specialty. The easy riders in our group got everyone cheering with some traditional Vietnamese slogans, and the atmosphere was electric. Dinner itself was a delicious spread of Vietnamese cuisine, with preset dishes and plenty of food to go around. The dinner was just the warm-up - afterwards, everyone was in the party spirit, so we hit the dance floor and even busted out the karaoke machine. We kept the good times rolling until 10pm, then decided to call it a night and get some rest.

The next morning kicked off with a heavy downpour, and we were a bit tensed - the roads were already getting tougher by the day, and the rain wasn't exactly what we needed. But as we fueled up on breakfast, the rain decided to take a break, so we quickly got our bikes ready and topped them off at the nearest gas station. With that done, we were ready to dive into day two of the Ha Giang Loop. The roads were slick, the sky was a deep grey, and the wind was blowing just right - plus, there was this misty vibe in the air that just felt amazing. We rode through the incredible Tham Ma Pass, which was super twisty, and when we finally reached the top, we stopped to take in the views and grab a coffee. We were blown away by how stunning the pass looked - and we'd just ridden right through it. Shreya found this gorgeous tiara and when she put it on, she totally looked like a princess. I snapped a few photos of her, and then we got back on our ride. Next, we arrived at the Hmong Kings' Palace and we took a tour before moving on. After we got to Dong Van, we stopped for lunch and then headed through the stunning Ma Li Peng Pass, which was even more beautiful with the mist and clouds rolling in.

Then we finally made it to the Skywalk, a super popular spot with a ledge that sticks out from a cliff, offering visitors a chance to take in the stunning views while standing or sitting on the edge. The scenery was so beautiful that it was perfect for snapping some photos, and lots of people were taking pictures of themselves on the ledge, making it look like they were floating in mid-air. After parking, we set off on a 2-3km hike to get to the Skywalk. When we arrived, we decided not to go to the ledge since there was a long line. Instead, we just chilled out and enjoyed the amazing views around us.

We finally rolled into Meo Vac in the evening, ready to crash for the night after a long 120km ride on day 2. After checking in, we grabbed our room and took a well-deserved break. At 7pm, it was time to fuel up for the night, so we joined a table of fellow travelers and kicked things off with the now-familiar "Happy Water" ritual. With full bellies and a few (okay, more than a few) shots of happy water under our belts, we hit the DJ floor and let loose. The night was absolutely electric. Eventually, we decided to call it a night, exhausted but exhilarated from the fun.

Day three of the Ha Giang Loop was supposed to be the longest ride of the trip, and boy, did it live up to that promise (160kms). We kicked off the day with a hearty breakfast, checked out of our place, and refueled our bikes. The roads were getting progressively tougher, with some stretches being super muddy and rough. But the scenery was about to get a whole lot more interesting. We arrived at the Nho Que river and hopped on a boat tour that took us through the stunning Tu San Canyon - the narrowest canyon in Vietnam. It was truly breathtaking. After the boat ride, we headed to Du Gia, but not before tackling some pretty rough roads. We finally hit the highway and cruised for a few hours, stopping for lunch along the way. But just when we thought things were getting easier, the roads decided to throw us a curveball. We hit a steep climb with patchy, pebbly roads that had my scooty slipping and sliding all over the place. I tried to keep control, but it was no use - I ended up losing my balance, and my calf got burned on the hot silencer as I tried to prevent the bike from falling (all while trying to keep Shreya safe on the back). Luckily, our guide was there to help us out and patch me up. We got back on the road and continued on, navigating some seriously twisty roads and crazy climbs. But the views were totally worth it. We finally made it to Du Gia, checked into a hostel, and crashed in our dorm - exhausted but exhilarated from the day's adventure.

We met up with everyone for dinner in the evening and did the Happy Water ritual, which was a nice way to unwind. Unfortunately, I wasn't feeling my best due to the wound, so we decided to head back and call it a night. The next morning, we had a quick breakfast and checked out. Then, we headed to a beautiful waterfall where we could all cool off with a swim. I had to sit this one out because of my burn, but Shreya had a blast with some new friends we'd made over the past few nights.

After that, we began our 110km journey back to Ha Giang. The route was pretty scenic, taking us through a long, picturesque valley, although the roads could've been better. We stopped for lunch along the way. As we neared the end of our ride, the skies opened up and it started pouring, so we broke out our ponchos to keep us dry. The last few kilometers were tough, with visibility near zero due to the heavy rain, but we finally made it back to Jasmine Hostel in one piece.

After wrapping up our four-day bike tour, we dropped off our bikes and gear, and treated ourselves to a well-deserved pizza. A few hours later, our bus pulled up to the hostel and dropped us off in Hanoi at the ungodly hour of 4am. With the rain pouring down and an early flight to Danang looming, we decided to hail a local cab instead of using Grab, trusting the driver when he promised to use the meter. Big mistake. When we arrived at the airport, the meter read a whopping 1,500,000 VND - way more than the 400,000 VND Grab had estimated. I called out the driver for scamming us with a rigged meter, but he just shrugged it off. Shreya and I weren't having it, so we took matters into our own hands. Shreya went to grab airport security while I threatened to report the driver to the cops. Faced with the possibility of getting in trouble, the driver finally agreed to accept 500,000 VND.

We breezed through airport security and hopped on our flight. Before we knew it, we were landing in Danang, just an hour later. From the airport, we grabbed a ride with Grab to our hotel in Hoi An.

Hoi An (4 Nights)

We checked into our hotel in Hoi An and decided to take it easy after our big Ha Giang Loop adventure. We spent the day lounging around and recharging our batteries. As the sun went down, we grabbed the hotel's free bikes and pedaled into the old town, which was even more gorgeous at night. The streets were decked out in colorful lanterns, creating this amazing atmosphere. We made our way to the river, where people were taking boat tours, but we opted to take in the view from the bridge instead. Standing there, we soaked up the scenery and eventually got hungry. The streets were lined with restaurants and bars offering happy hour deals, but we were in the mood for something more local, so we hit up the street vendors and chowed down on Banh Mi, coconut ice cream, and other tasty snacks. After taking in the sights and sounds of the river and lanterns, we headed back to the hotel, but not before stopping at Mot Hoi An for a soothing cup of herbal tea - it was just what I needed. We called it a night, feeling refreshed and happy.

The next morning, we fueled up with a tasty breakfast and headed to the Hoi An Coconut Village for a fun coconut boat ride. We hopped in a Grab and made our way there, which took about 30 minutes. Once we arrived, we booked a boat and climbed aboard. These little boats are super colorful and can only fit three people, including the person peddling. As we glided along the river, we were surrounded by coconut trees - it was really pretty. We snapped some photos and enjoyed the scenery. Before long, we came across a group of boats doing some crazy stunts, like spinning around at high speed to the tune of Gangnam Style. It was seriously impressive. After taking it all in, we headed back to shore. Next up, we explored the old town and checked out a few cafes, grabbing lunch along the way. To unwind, we decided to treat ourselves to a traditional Vietnamese Massage. Let's just say it was a bit of a painful experience for me.

We spent the evening wandering around the old town and stumbled upon this Japanese spot, so we figured, why not give it a try? We ordered a sushi platter and some Sake, which was served up in traditional Japanese style. The sushi was ridiculously affordable - probably the cheapest I've ever had - but it was actually pretty tasty. With our bellies full, we took a leisurely walk around and then headed back to the hotel.

The next day was supposed to be our Bana Hills adventure near Danang, but my calf burn decided to act up, making every step a struggle. So, we ditched the plans and spent the day lounging at the hotel instead. By evening, I was feeling a bit better and had a major craving for some spicy Indian food. So I booked a table at a popular restaurant, and they even sent a car to pick us up - talk about service. The following day was more of the same, taking it easy since my leg was still pretty sore. On our last day, we checked out of the hotel - I highly recommend the Hoi An Golden Hotel, by the way - and grabbed a cab to the airport. From there, it was a flight to Hanoi, a terminal change, and then another flight to Delhi.